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Sender One Open

Sender One Open

Posted by: on Jun 15, 2013 | No Comments

Sender One in Orange County, CA has opened it’s doors to the public. With a big ceremony and competition the gym has officially changed the game for gyms in Southern California. I can’t wait to get down and try it out all 25,000 sq ft and their epic 50ft high walls.

Alpine Deep Water Solo

Alpine Deep Water Solo

Posted by: on May 22, 2013 | No Comments

Our friends over at Walltopia are up to it again creating a deep water soloing wall up at Utah Olympic Park just outside of Kimball Junction in Park City. Word is there will be a competition during the summer Outdoor Retailer as part of the outdoor games they throw. As far as I can tell the wall will be open to the public for a fee, as will the ski jumps into the pool. Would you take a shot at it?

Sender One

Sender One

Posted by: on May 18, 2013 | No Comments

I don’t know about everyone else, but I’m going to assume you’re all as excited as I am about the new Sender One Gym that is about to open in Southern California. I have really enjoyed Walltopia’s work over the years and they continue to out-do themselves. I’m sure the collaboration between Sharma and Walltopia was a lot of fun given the end result they came to.

Enter the DogPatch

Enter the DogPatch

Posted by: on May 7, 2013 | No Comments

San Francisco has a new place to get you pumped and working on your v11′s!

Dogpatch Boulders, which is part of the Touchstone Family, opened earlier this year and has been a hit with the local and broader climbing community. One look at their facility and it’s easy to understand why. We had the opportunity to chat with Justin, who filled us in on all the great things about dogpatch boulders.

tru fit

tru fit

Posted by: on Jan 5, 2013 | No Comments

during my visit to outdoor retailer this year i met the crew from tru-fit. they were very excited about their product and I can see why. it was a very cool work out system similar to the trx system some are familiar with. they are focused on youth fitness training and want to work with adults, trainers and coaches to help educate the next generation. i had a chance to try a few work outs on the system and i have to say it was very bomber allowing anyone of any level to feel safe and confident in using the system. there is admittedly a small learning curve, which really is inherent with any system like this.

new additions

new additions

Posted by: on Oct 22, 2012 | No Comments

we now come to one of my all time favorite companies…edelrid! one of the oldest rope manufactures and constant innovator these guys really know how to build something with style, design and quality. while i own a bunch of harness’s ranging from black diamond to arcteryx, but keep finding my way back to my edelrid harness.

so i was super stoked to see they were bringing a new harness with incredible innovation to the market place and were excited to show it off at outdoor retailer. the “orion” harness is a new light weight 3 dimensional harness. simple terms the 3d aspect of the harness is made to fit more naturally to our body type. this is getting away from the flat belt harness which is commonly found. other is the runners around the waist and legs, you can see them in the photo. these allow the harness to breath better while creating a stronger harness, they also provide optimal load transmission.

i love my jul device, so much i have considered buying the alternate colors just to have them. so i was very excited when they pulled out the new mega and micro jul device. the micro is sold along with the new 6.9 twin alpine rope “fly catcher”. The mega jul is designed for larger ropes, and will be my next belay device.

next in line was a innovative rope from a rope company. the “snipe” is a dual diameter rope, which gives a physical indicator to the belayer to help keep your eyes on the climber. the transition is from 10mm to 9.8mm and also is bi-colored. they have also gone so far to weave webbing into the rope to create a stronger more durable rope. another rope you will want to keep a lookout for if your a edelrid diehard or just want a limited edition package is annaversary rope and rope bag kit. these will very limited and a celebration towards edelrids 150 years in the sport.

the hms strike slider is a new carabiner from edelrid offers a H shape and thumb trigger for opening the locker on the carabiner. solid construction and a smooth feel made this carabiner a interesting piece of gear.

last but not least is the lightest quick draw in the world, 19 g set is insanely light weight…almost scary light but these guys know how to make some amazing safe gear. take a set of these and a skinny rope, you would probably not even realize you have gear your carrying as you lead the route. overall, edelrid really did out do themselves again and the colors…gotta love the colors.

time to camp

time to camp

Posted by: on Oct 13, 2012 | No Comments

a company that has flown under my radar for some time is camp. i had a chance to sit down and talk with them about what makes them so special, and they had a lot to make them stand out in my eyes. rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine, mountineering, via ferrata, trail running and endurance racing are a few of the the specialties they thrive at. camp stands for (concezione articoli montagna premana) which is located in premana, italy. a tiny mountain village plays host to a innovative global business. there is a road into premana but no road out, the people of Premana have a heritage in manufacturing and are renown for being masters of metallurgy in technical industries like high-end forging and cutlery. in 2014, the company will celebrate a benchmark 125 years, a century and a quarter of innovation that begins with the origins of modern mountaineering and ends with camp’s global reputation for producing the lightest piece of gear in nearly every category.

ultra light helmets were ubundent at the 2012 outdoor retailer, but i really liked the look and feel of a new helmet from camp. the helmet on the left is speed and is 210 grams making it the lightest on the market. i really liked the look of this helmet and found it incredibly comfortable. the helmet on the right is the armour which was revisited this year for men, women and children…basically some new color ways for added choice and flavor.

camp also showed me some of the new bags they have, while i love the color i really ended up loving the back entry into the pack. the m3 light above provides having one move side to access your gear , this can really make a difference when packing light and solid. with a clean outside and technical build, camp packs really are top of the food chain.

the trail vest 10 is new this year and ideal for any sort of distance and adventure running. ultra light hiking could benefit from this vest also if you are one to pack light and prefer a bag that fits close to the body. coming with a bladder pocket, 2 front water bottle pockets and snack pockets will ensure enough water and fuel to power through your race. weighing in at 12.9 oz this on the go vest style pack will support you through the gnarliest terrain.

the laser cr was a really nice looking harness that caught my eye, new in 2012 this minimalist designed harness is able to provide plenty of comfort in this laminate big route rig. feeling tough enough to handle abrasion but remaining breathable.

the flint is simple, functional, comfortable and affordable giving it a broad scape in which to operate. clean colors, 6mm eva foam padding, 4 webbing reinforced gear loops give you a bang for your buck.

this was a very clean approach to helping prevent cross-loading with an inner gate. on the hms belay lock both gates use the same spring allowing them to make it lighter and let the gates work in unison for fast and easy attachment.

not new this year except for a 8 pack of the wire photon version, none the less this carabiner is still worth talking about. the photon straight and bent gate carabiner are the lightest full size key locking carabiner in the world. really loved the look and feel of these both, i can see why the 5 and 8 pack are such big sellers.

this compact screw gate carabiner is really nice in the way it is shaped, with an almost perfectly symmetrical curve it allows for the carabiner to keep the rope from bunching. making for less friction and heat on long belays or rappels.

checking in

Posted by: on Sep 17, 2012 | No Comments

scarpa has been making a big impact in my climbing since i began wearing the feroce and vapor. so i was excited to see what they where bringing to outdoor retailer this year. the most exciting shoe i saw at the show and at scarpa was the “instinct”

spending some time with scarpa’s lead designer proved how passionate and savoy he was at designing shoes both for climbing, mountaineering and approach. the instinct was packed with innovation and style. this uber high performance shoe will surly be making waves once released to market.

next up was new color waves for the force climbing shoes. i really like the hit of orange and the cross pull straps.

other color waves coming out where for the crux approach shoe.

endless variations

Posted by: on Sep 13, 2012 | No Comments

my favorite chalk bags i have ever used are from a small company called krieg. the owner sam loves his job and loves making people happy. it shows with how many friends he had stopping by and the reputation he has with his bags and business. he also makes bike bags, but we are here to discuss chalk bags. every run of bags he makes are unique and small in quantity, so if you see one you like….buy it!

Petzl’s Outdoor Retailer 2012

Posted by: on Sep 3, 2012 | No Comments

stopping by petzl’s booth proved to be a fun and interesting visit. guess we should talk about the elephant thats in the room when it comes to petzl this year which is our first photo below. the sirocco climbing helmet!

retailing for $110 and probably one of the most sought after products at this years outdoor retailer. weighing in at 5.8 ounces makes this one of the lightest helmets coming to the market. while talking with petzl rep’s they had a test they were eager to show everyone, standing on the helmet to show how structurally strong it was given the foam like material. trying it on, i found it very comfortable and could see the benefits of it. despite how ugly it is.

next in line and possibly my favorite product shown during the time with petzl was their new headlamp the “nao”. this wonderment in technology incorporates the self adjusting ability due to the amount of light needed to operate whether on trail or a big wall, reading a map or working in your tent.

i was somewhat jealous to see the spirit quick draw had been reworked a bit. i love climbing with these and they are my dedicated rack and while i love my set, i wouldn’t mind trying out a few of these on lead. 4 major changes are the H style carabiner, new tear shaped bone, lighter/stronger and finger notch on the gates. minor change are the color for the grommet and bone.

new ascenders were showcased at outdoor retailer, these were beautiful and i can’t wait to add these to my canyoneering rack. the new croll and basic ascenders work both in dry and icy conditions. while training and practice are key to using ascenders, they are working on keeping them simple and straight forward.

next inline are a plethora of colors being introduced to harness, headlamps and chalk bags. many of them are designed to be paired with similar colors. i do have to say i really liked the new color wave they came out with. fresh, modern and unique.